正當中國白酒xingyezaoyutiaozhengqi,xianrudigudeshihou,zhongguobaijiuhequhecong,chenglexingyeneiwaiguanxindehuati,qizhongtaolundebijiaonaoredeshizhongguobaijiushifouyinggaizhuiqiushishang。zaiguchuizhongguobaijiuyinggaizhuiqiushishangzhekanlai,“時尚化”sihuchenglezhengjiubaijiushengmingdelingdanmiaoyaohejiumingdaocao。tuchubiaoxianzai,youdeyishenghuofangshiduohuaweiyou,youdeyichongshangshishangdenianqingrenweicanzhao,haiyoudegeishishangbaijiuhualegebiaozhunxiang,gengyoushenzhe,zhongguobaijiubushishanghuajiushisiluyitiao。
qieyiwei,zhongguobaijiushishanghuadeluntiaohuoquxiang,bujinyouzhikexiao,erqiehuangmiuyumei,zheduizhongguobaijiuxingyeshiwudaoheweixie,kongbukepa。shishanghuabushizhongguobaijiudejiumingdaocao。
“時尚”這(zhe)個(ge)詞(ci)很(hen)流(liu)行(xing),是(shi)個(ge)地(di)地(di)道(dao)道(dao)的(de)舶(bo)來(lai)品(pin),頻(pin)繁(fan)出(chu)現(xian)在(zai)報(bao)刊(kan)媒(mei)體(ti)上(shang),追(zhui)求(qiu)時(shi)尚(shang)似(si)已(yi)蔚(wei)然(ran)成(cheng)風(feng)。時(shi)尚(shang)是(shi)什(shen)麼(me)呢(ne)?時(shi)尚(shang)一(yi)詞(ci)在(zai)新(xin)華(hua)字(zi)典(dian)裏(li)的(de)解(jie)釋(shi)是(shi):當時的風尚;一時的習尚。時尚就是短時間裏一些人所崇尚的生活。換言之,時尚就是在特定時段內率先由少數人嚐試、預認為後來將為社會大眾所崇尚和仿效的生活樣式。時尚具有短暫性、多變性、盲目效仿等特性。
與時尚相對應的是“傳統”。在新華詞典裏傳統是這樣解釋的,過去傳承下來的具有一定特點的某種思想、作風、信仰、風俗、習xi慣guan等deng。傳chuan統tong就jiu是shi傳chuan承cheng和he統tong一yi前qian人ren社she會hui經jing驗yan概gai念nian的de共gong識shi。中zhong國guo傳chuan統tong文wen化hua的de基ji本ben精jing神shen,實shi質zhi上shang就jiu是shi中zhong華hua民min族zu的de民min族zu精jing神shen。傳chuan統tong的de文wen化hua特te點dian是shi世shi代dai相xiang傳chuan、民族特色、曆史悠久、博大精深等。
從古至今,時尚一直流行於世,因其具有短暫性、多(duo)變(bian)性(xing)的(de)特(te)性(xing),曆(li)朝(chao)各(ge)代(dai)那(na)些(xie)一(yi)時(shi)之(zhi)尚(shang),往(wang)往(wang)曇(tan)花(hua)一(yi)現(xian),很(hen)快(kuai)就(jiu)被(bei)曆(li)史(shi)的(de)潮(chao)流(liu)衝(chong)刷(shua)得(de)幹(gan)幹(gan)淨(jing)淨(jing),凋(diao)零(ling)得(de)無(wu)蹤(zong)無(wu)影(ying)。有(you)一(yi)種(zhong)現(xian)象(xiang),自(zi)古(gu)以(yi)來(lai)曆(li)代(dai)學(xue)者(zhe)不(bu)在(zai)《易經》上拿點話來說,在當時的學術界就稱不上有見解的學者,特別是在宋代。為趕時髦,追求時尚,以《易經》weiticaidezhushi,yonghanniuchongdonglaixingrong,haobukuazhang,shitongyiticaizhushuzuiduode。danshi,beilishidalangtaoshahou,zhenzhengliuchuanxialaidejingdianzhizuo,quequzhikeshu。
中(zhong)國(guo)白(bai)酒(jiu)是(shi)一(yi)個(ge)傳(chuan)統(tong)的(de)東(dong)西(xi),源(yuan)於(yu)中(zhong)華(hua)民(min)族(zu)悠(you)久(jiu)曆(li)史(shi)的(de)長(chang)河(he)之(zhi)中(zhong),是(shi)中(zhong)華(hua)民(min)族(zu)傳(chuan)統(tong)優(you)秀(xiu)文(wen)化(hua)的(de)重(zhong)要(yao)組(zu)成(cheng)部(bu)分(fen),紮(zha)根(gen)於(yu)民(min)族(zu)深(shen)處(chu),是(shi)中(zhong)國(guo)傳(chuan)統(tong)文(wen)化(hua)的(de)精(jing)華(hua)之(zhi)一(yi),有(you)人(ren)把(ba)白(bai)酒(jiu)歸(gui)為(wei)中(zhong)國(guo)“第五大發明”,毫不過分。據考古研究發現,中國釀造白酒已有7000年的曆史。
中國白酒的生命力還在於它的世界獨一無二的釀造技藝,並代代相傳。它采用傳統固態蒸煮、固態發酵、固gu態tai蒸zheng餾liu,精jing心xin釀niang製zhi而er成cheng。傳chuan統tong工gong藝yi釀niang造zao的de白bai酒jiu是shi中zhong國guo的de非fei物wu質zhi文wen化hua遺yi產chan,曆li代dai傳chuan承cheng,有you著zhe中zhong國guo傳chuan統tong文wen化hua深shen厚hou的de基ji礎chu。可ke以yi想xiang見jian,在zai慢man長chang的de曆li史shi發fa展zhan過guo程cheng中zhong,那na些xie曇tan花hua一yi現xian的de所suo謂wei時shi尚shang,在zai白bai酒jiu傳chuan統tong釀niang造zao技ji藝yi麵mian前qian,擬ni以yi時shi尚shang動dong搖yao白bai酒jiu的de根gen基ji,無wu疑yi是shi蒼cang白bai無wu力li的de。
在當代有些人以社會進步、技(ji)術(shu)發(fa)展(zhan)為(wei)借(jie)口(kou),以(yi)所(suo)謂(wei)新(xin)工(gong)藝(yi)白(bai)酒(jiu)為(wei)時(shi)尚(shang),即(ji)采(cai)用(yong)酒(jiu)精(jing)加(jia)水(shui)加(jia)香(xiang)料(liao)生(sheng)產(chan)白(bai)酒(jiu)的(de)做(zuo)法(fa),來(lai)替(ti)代(dai)傳(chuan)統(tong)工(gong)藝(yi)釀(niang)造(zao)的(de)白(bai)酒(jiu),顯(xian)然(ran)是(shi)站(zhan)不(bu)住(zhu)腳(jiao)的(de)。當(dang)今(jin)世(shi)界(jie)上(shang)叫(jiao)得(de)最(zui)響(xiang)的(de)國(guo)際(ji)名(ming)酒(jiu)品(pin)牌(pai),無(wu)一(yi)不(bu)是(shi)堅(jian)持(chi)遵(zun)循(xun)了(le)傳(chuan)統(tong)釀(niang)造(zao)技(ji)藝(yi),並(bing)沒(mei)有(you)因(yin)為(wei)新(xin)技(ji)術(shu)新(xin)工(gong)藝(yi)的(de)發(fa)達(da),而(er)丟(diu)棄(qi)或(huo)替(ti)代(dai)了(le)傳(chuan)統(tong)。俄(e)羅(luo)斯(si)伏(fu)特(te)加(jia)酒(jiu)是(shi)曆(li)史(shi)最(zui)悠(you)久(jiu)的(de)伏(fu)特(te)加(jia)品(pin)牌(pai)之(zhi)一(yi),現(xian)在(zai)也(ye)是(shi)隻(zhi)采(cai)用(yong)最(zui)上(shang)好(hao)的(de)穀(gu)物(wu)釀(niang)造(zao),在(zai)蒸(zheng)餾(liu)過(guo)程(cheng)中(zhong)隻(zhi)保(bao)留(liu)最(zui)精(jing)華(hua)的(de)部(bu)分(fen),很(hen)大(da)一(yi)部(bu)分(fen)不(bu)穩(wen)定(ding)的(de)頭(tou)酒(jiu)和(he)油(you)膩(ni)的(de)尾(wei)酒(jiu)都(dou)被(bei)拋(pao)棄(qi),以(yi)確(que)保(bao)風(feng)味(wei)純(chun)正(zheng)。金(jin)酒(jiu)雖(sui)然(ran)有(you)很(hen)多(duo)釀(niang)製(zhi)的(de)方(fang)法(fa),但(dan)是(shi)歐(ou)洲(zhou)共(gong)同(tong)規(gui)則(ze)管(guan)理(li)烈(lie)酒(jiu)的(de)生(sheng)產(chan)方(fang)法(fa),首(shou)先(xian)必(bi)須(xu)遵(zun)循(xun)“蒸餾法”,這也是傳統的釀製方法。白蘭地始終遵循了傳統的釀造工藝過程,即由果實的漿汁或皮渣經發酵、蒸餾、木桶貯存、調配勾兌後最終製成成品。在中國,世界知名品牌瀘州老窖、茅台等,正是堅守了中國白酒傳統固態釀造技藝,才成為中國非物質文化遺產,並進入世界非物質文化遺產名錄。
以生活方式現代化、消費結構多元化、年輕人的一時之尚為由,把社會上出現而占很少比例的“喝洋酒”、“喝夜啤酒”xianxiang,zuoweizhongguobaijiushishangdecanzhaobiaozhun,yushihuzhuzhangzhongguobaijiudechuantongniangzaojiyihepinzhifengge,yedesuizhiergaibiandeshuofa,gengshixiandeqianboheqinglv。shixiang,zaijiqianniandelishichanghezhong,renmendeshenghuofangshinandaobushiyushidaitongbu?xiaofeijiegoushidanyidema?nayigelishishidaimeiyounianqingren?shifouxuanzeyinyongbaijiu,yunianlingmeiyouzhijieguanxi,zhongguolidaiwenrenmoke,henduorenyiyinbaijiuweifengliutitang,xiaosayishi,chuangzuochuliuchuanqiangujiazuomingpian,qizhongjiubufadaliangdenianqingren。
值得重新觀察的是,有的白酒企業在包裝、形態、口味等方麵的多樣化或調整,如“小酒”現象,這些隻能屬於白酒企業生產、科學管理、營銷策略的範圍,跟傳統或時尚沒有任何關係。
縱觀風靡的中國白酒時尚論,其根本原因是曆史文化的斷層或背離。在利益追逐、xinyangmangranderennali,wenhuazaitamenmianqianyijingdanran,zhonghuaminzudechuantongyouxiuwenhuazaitamendelinghunzhong,huoyidangranwucun。daolihenjiandan,zhongguobaijiudexiaofeirenzhi,xuyaoyoulishiwenhuaderentonggan。xianzaibujinshibufennianqingrenzhuisuipiaomiaowuchangdesuoweishishang,erqiechengnianrenjingxiaxinlaidudianshu,xuedianlishiwenhuazhe,yichenglexiqi。youlejianpan,renmenbuyongxiehanzile,yebuhuixiehanzile。hanzishihanyushuxiedezuijibendanyuan,shizhongguolishiwenhuadehexinyuansu,zuijinyangshigaoleyixiang“漢字拚寫大會”zaishehuishangchanshengqiangliedefanxiang,renmenfaxian,womenbalishiwenhuadehexinyuansuhanzigeigaodiule,buhuixiezile。tongli,yigemeiyoulishiwenhuajidianhexiuyangderen,hennanganshoudaozhongguobaijiudewenhuajingsuihejiazhimeili,ermanyanjinshibianhuanwuchangdeyishizhishang。
概(gai)而(er)言(yan)之(zhi),今(jin)天(tian)的(de)中(zhong)國(guo)白(bai)酒(jiu)仍(reng)然(ran)是(shi)過(guo)去(qu)的(de)中(zhong)國(guo)白(bai)酒(jiu),為(wei)什(shen)麼(me)現(xian)在(zai)有(you)些(xie)人(ren)就(jiu)認(ren)為(wei)因(yin)為(wei)是(shi)傳(chuan)統(tong)的(de),就(jiu)是(shi)過(guo)時(shi)了(le)的(de),而(er)要(yao)生(sheng)搬(ban)硬(ying)套(tao)地(di)強(qiang)求(qiu)其(qi)時(shi)尚(shang)化(hua)呢(ne)?罪(zui)不(bu)在(zai)中(zhong)國(guo)白(bai)酒(jiu),罪(zui)在(zai)我(wo)們(men)的(de)審(shen)美(mei)意(yi)識(shi)、文化視點出了問題,罪在我們這個時代淡出了傳承,罪在我們把幾千年的中華民族優秀曆史文化束之高閣。
如果中國白酒為了迎合那些暫時的、多變的一時之尚,而丟棄了傳統的文化精華,那麼很快它就會被曆史的潮流衝刷得遍體鱗傷。我仍然堅持我曾發表的一篇文章《中國白酒的生命在乎回歸傳統》deguandian,bingzhuzhangzhongguodebaijiuqiye,gengyaoxiangluzhoulaojiaohemaotainayang,jianshouzhongguobaijiuchuantongniangzaojiyi,weilaobaixingniangzaochugengduodezhongguomeijiu。tangruci,zhongguobaijiuyidinghuizouxianggengjiameihaodemingtian。


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